Friday, November 30, 2012

Hoodies Coming Soon!!

Dog Sense has been providing low-cost training since 2007, and free training for rescue organizations. Our goal has always been to provide public education on responsible pet ownership, and we do this through workshops, lectures, educational videos and group classes. We feel that with more dogs in our community getting trained and more owners learning about vaccination schedules, disease prevention, spaying and neutering, early socialization, problem behavior solutions, nutrition and safety, then there will be fewer dogs ending up in shelters or living on the streets.

Help support our low-cost dog training program by purchasing one of our brand new, warm and cozy hoodies!! This is a pre-order, so as soon as we get 6 or more orders we will put the order through. And as a thank you for your support, we will pick up the shipping! 


 


Choose a Size:

Thank you for supporting us! :)

Saturday, October 27, 2012

Happy National Pit Bull Awareness Day!


Since World War II American Pit Bull Terriers have had a bad reputation in society. They are often painted as a vicious breed with a thirst for the blood of young children and anything on four legs. But this is not true. The breed originated in Europe in the 19th century and was originally bred for bear and bull baiting. Their strong, powerful jaws made them a formidable opponent. But what a lot of people do not realize is that APBTs are actually fantastic family dogs if they are trained and socialized early (like you should do with any dog). If you are hesitant around APBT’s, keep in mind that these dogs were bred to take down other aggressive animals, not people. This is because during fights their owners would need to get into the bear pit to break up the fight and they couldn’t have their dogs turn on them, so any dogs that showed any aggression towards people were usually not bred. This has resulted in a breed that absolutely adores human companionship. This strong-hearted breed is happiest being the class clown and guzzling up affection from their families and everyone else they meet. This breed is energetic, intelligent, and loyal and it strives to please its owners. But because training and socialization with other animals should begin early, this breed would do best with an experienced owner who will stay consistent with the rules of the house. And because APBT’s are in the working breed group, they should be exercised daily. 


All of the APBTs I have trained have been very fond of people, and the ones socialized early were always the bounciest dogs at the dog park. Only one dog that I worked with I would consider aggressive, and that was because his owner's personalities were not a good match for him. This dog was strong-willed and his owners were push-overs so this dog learned that he could get whatever he wanted by bullying them and snapping at them. They also NEVER bothered to take him outside his home, so he developed an intense fear or other people, dogs, and places outside his four walls. It took a lot of hard work and eye opening experiences with his owners to get them to realize they were not a good fit for their dog so he ended up going with another owner who was more capable of raising him. In the end it all worked out. I would suggest that if you are thinking of bringing an APBT into your home, be prepared to begin training and socializing the moment he arrives, and make sure your personality is strong enough to be consistent with your home's rules and your expectations. Think of APBT's as a child who just needs to be shown how to live in our world and what is expected of them. If you want a dog that you won't have to put any work into, maybe get a cute fluffy lap dog instead. But any work you put into an APBT you will get back times ten, they are fun, 
happy dogs that just want to make you happy too.




Dog Anatomy: That Tongue!

Hello readers! I hope you are enjoying what I have posted so far. Today I'd like to introduce something I hope will turn into a regular series... a series on dog anatomy! I plan on covering eyes, ears, nose, tongue, fur, hips, etc. All those features that make dogs so amazing!

And dog tongues are definitely amazing and surprisingly not just for giving sloppy wet kisses! The tongue is one of the many tools that dogs have that enable them to explore and make sense of the world around them. Let's discover more shall we? :-)

The tongue is made up of 6 major muscles, the Frenulum, which attaches the tongue to the floor of the mouth, the Genioglossus, which pulls the tip of the tongue back, the Hyoglossus, which draws the tongue back into the mouth, the Styoglossus, which pulls the tongue back and upwards, and the Mylohyoideus, which supports the extrinsic muscles of the tongue.



Dogs depend on their sense of taste to find resources like food and water. The dog's taste buds are as follows:

1. Salty
2 and 3. Sweet
4. Water- yes water! Dogs have a finely tuned ability to taste water, which comes in handy when looking for something to drink.

Dogs taste sour over much of the top of the tongue towards the back with sweet on the sides and the front. If you use taste deterrents such as Bitter Apple to prevent your dog from chewing inappropriate items like your shoes, I find it helpful to spray it in the dogs mouth first so they associate the product in the bottle with the bad taste, then let them see you spraying it on the forbidden item. Dogs make negative taste associations quickly, so this usually does the trick and they will know the item tastes like whatever is in that yucky bottle. The reason why it is not helpful to spray the item before the dog has tasted it is because when a dog chews, it is usually the sides and front of their tongue that come in contact with the object, not their bitter taste buds, so they do not taste the taste deterrent (I know, weird right?).

Because dogs cannot sweat they depend on their tongue as a major source of heat loss. The tongue is rich with capillaries so when a dog pants, the tongue swells and the rapid movement of cool air from the environment moving over their moist tongue whisks away heat, helping them regulate their body temperature.

One of a dog owner's most enjoyable moments is watching their dog running and playing with their tongue flapping in the breeze. While tongue injuries are rare, they can happen, especially if they are running in tall grass where foxtails can get caught in their mouth. These need to be removed immediately to prevent them from becoming embedded and infected. Cuts on the tongue can also happen, and because the tongue has such a large amount of capillaries, small lacerations can bleed quite profusely. In this case, it looks much worse than it actually is, so if the dog is panting and the tongue is swelled, cooling the dog down will reduce the swelling and allow the tongue to clot quickly and the bleeding will stop.

The tongue is a remarkable organ, but we as dog owners tend to love it more for the kisses it gives us! We tend to look at big wet sloppy puppy kisses as a sign of affection from our dogs, but is it? As puppies, a mother dog uses licking as a way to keep her pups clean, to stimulate them to urinate or defecate, and to encourage bonding between her and her pups. Licking also helps stimulate their mental development. As the puppies grow, usually after 6 weeks of age, puppies begin to return the favor and will lick their mother's lips when they want her to regurgitate food for them to eat (see photo). Licking is also a sign of submission that is used in dog-dog interactions, as well as a part of grooming. Dogs will also lick when they are nervous or as a gesture of appeasement or goodwill (see photo below). In an article by Dr. Nicholas Dodman, dogs "may lick their own lips or may lick a person to whom they wish to signal deference. If the recipient of the licking interprets this behavior as "make-up kisses," that's just fine. Perhaps the behavior is analogous to some forms of human kissing and thus their interpretation may be close to the truth." But what about that excited dog that jumps all over us when we get home and licks our faces with reckless abandon? Dodman explains, "For some dogs, it seems that they engage in face licking because they can get away with it and because it gets a rise out of the person." This might be a case of positive reinforcement where 1. dog licks person, 2. person gets excited and rewards the dog with petting, praise and affection. Lesson learned = giving kisses is good! 
 

Whether you are a fan of "getting kisses" from your dog or not, or whether you think your dog is simply begging to share what you had for lunch or is giving you genuine affection, we can all agree that the tongue is of vital importance to our dogs. The tongue is a sustainer of life, an air conditioner, a bath, a former of bonds and a great communicator. The tongue is a muscle that really pulls its weight!



Resources: http://www.petplace.com/dogs/is-your-dog-licking-or-kissing/page1.aspx

Saturday, September 1, 2012

A very special visit

Today my dog Cindy (who served as a mobility service dog for me after I suffered a back injury a year ago) got to visit my grandpa in the hospital. He was so happy to see her, and she was so excited to see him! Here's a video clip of their visit. This just goes to show how deep the human-animal bond can be and how much therapy animals really do help patients. This short visit had the entire staff a-buzz with everyone wanting to come meet her. It is my hope that the hospital higher-ups will consider starting a therapy dog program soon. :-)



If you are considering bringing your dog to a hospital to visit a friend or family member, there are a lot of steps that you need to take before your pet is allowed inside. Hospitals are held to high sanitation standards and bringing animals in can introduce contaminants into the hospital environment that may affect the health of patients who are immunocompromised or otherwise need a sterile environment. You should check with your hospital's CNA first and find out what protocols your hospital has in place first.

Some of the steps we took to bring Cindy to visit the hospital included:
- Having her groomed, nails trimmed and teeth brushed the day of her visit. I took it a step further and brought pet wipes to wipe her paws once we got inside the lobby.
- Have your veterinarian write a letter certifying your pet is in good health.
- A copy of your pet's vaccination records and rabies certificate.
- The CNA in charge of the floor where the patient you want to visit will need to communicate with the house supervisor and infection control department to notify them of the visit as well.

I hope you find this helpful. Please ensure that your pet is friendly and able to tolerate the sometimes stressful and usually highly stimulating hospital environment before you think about bringing them. The more positive experiences that hospitals have with well mannered pets, the more likely they are to allow pets again in the future. Only through successful incident-free visits can your pet help to be an ambassador for other therapy and companion animals to be able to make hospital visits in the future. All it takes is one bad experience for a hospital to close its mind off to allowing pets again in the future, so if you do not think your pet will tolerate being in this kind of situation, please consider bringing photos and videos instead.

Friday, July 13, 2012

Senior Dog Wellness

Yesterday while waiting for some work to be done on my car, I read an article that appeared in my local paper about a family and their senior dog who decided to go hiking one afternoon. Southern California is a desert and we have been having a mild heat wave for the past week so temperatures have been in the upper nineties or and hundreds. Unfortunately for the family and dog, what started out as a 45 minute hike turned into a 6 hour ordeal after the dog quickly became overheated and was unable to continue hiking. The owners had to carry the dog back to the car and call for help and by the time the forestry service came to their rescue, the poor dog's paws were bleeding and he had suffered a mild heat stroke (he is okay now though!). This made me realize that there needs to be more information out there about caring for senior dogs. This topic has a tendency to make some dog owners uncomfortable because it reminds them that their dog's time on this Earth is never long enough, but living with a senior dog does not have to be so scary if you are prepared. I would also like to remind all of my new (and hopefully returning!) readers that a dog is a forever commitment, not just an "I'll keep you while you're cute/healthy/small/young/etc then give you up when you start to decline" kind of commitment. To illustrate my point I'd like to tell you about my last dog, Tucker.


Tucker was a thirteen and a half year old Australian Shepherd without a home. He had found his way to a no-kill beagle rescue when he was just a puppy and they had kept him his entire life because no was interested in adopting him. After we lost our last dog Gus, we were not yet ready for another 10+ year commitment so when we came across Tucker, we knew we had to take him. He had started loosing his vision and his arthritis was starting to act up, but otherwise he was in good shape and he had a lot of love to give. We had him for only two years, but he was one of the best dogs we could have asked for. His enthusiasm and love for everything, and I mean EVERYTHING, was just what we needed to mend the pieces of our broken hearts. Every day was full of excitement for Tucker. Since he had spend his entire life in a kennel, his first time feeling grass, carpet, sand, etc was exciting for him. If we dropped something on the floor, he got excited about it. If someone sneezed, he got excited. This dog loved life and everything in it! We knew that when we decided to take Tucker under our roof, he was there to stay, for better or worse. In his short time with us, Tucker taught us  to be happy and tackle every day with zest and passion. 


This leads me to today's topic.... Senior Dogs!! I am very passionate about senior dogs and even though they require a little extra care, they still have a ton of love to give. So today's post will focus on how to keep your older pets happy and healthy into their golden years. Even if you just got a puppy or your dog isn't quite there yet, I hope you will take what I have to say to heart so that as your dogs age they will do it with all the grace and dignity they deserve.



SO WHAT IS A SENIOR DOG?
There are many aging signs to watch for that will indicate when your dog can be classified as a senior.
1.) Age: Tufts University has published the following guidelines for defining a senior dog: "Veterinarians generally consider small dogs to be senior citizens at about 12 years of age, while large dogs reach the senior stage at 6 to 8 years of age. This roughly corresponds to the 55-plus category in people."

2.) Slowing Down: taking longer to get up, longer to climb stairs (one at a time rather than two), etc. It is important to note that just because your pet appears to be slowing down, it may not always be due to old age and should not be ignored as such. Your dog may have a medical problem that is easily treatable which can make your dog mobile again. So before brushing off something like difficulty getting around as old age, have your vet do a complete work up on your dog to rule out any other causes.

HOW DO DOGS AGE?
1.) Factors influencing the rate of aging:
a.) Genetic Background- some breeds have health problems that are specific to that breed. Larger breeds are more prone to arthritis in their back and hips, german shepherds are prone to hip displaysia, floppy eared breeds are prone to ear problems and deafness, etc.
b.) Nutrition- feeding your dog the right food will help slow the aging process. However, be sure not to overfeed your dog. Obesity will cause more health problems as your dog ages.
c.) Environmental factors- keeping your dog’s living environment clean and parasite free. Controlling fleas and ticks by using flea medicines will help prevent disease and illness, which will also speed up the aging process. Having clean beds, food and water bowls can help prevent your dog from getting sick as well, which benefits their immune system which may not respond as well to infections.
d.) Regular vet visits: Once your dog reaches the “senior age", visits to the vet should be made every six months to a year. Remember that a year to us is equal to five years to a dog. Complete geriatric workups should be done every year to six months. The earlier problems are detected, the more likely they can be fixed.
Up to 15 pounds
Begin geriatric screening at age 9 to 11
16 to 50 pounds
Begin geriatric screening at age 7 to 9
51 to 80 pounds
Begin geriatric screening at age 6 to 8
Over 80 pounds
Begin geriatric screening at age 4 to 6

What is a geriatric screening?
It is an exam which includes a thorough hands-on physical exam, complete
blood tests, urinalysis, possibly an electrocardiogram, and other test 
depending on your dog’s health history. It is recommended to stay alert to 
changes in your dog’s behavior in between vet visits.

2.)   Things to watch for in between vet visits:
a.)   Sudden weight loss: this can be extremely serious and your dog should see a vet as soon as possible.
b.)   Loss of appetite: eating very little to nothing at all.
c.)   Increase in appetite without weight gain: this could be a symptom of diabetes.
d.)   Diarrhea or vomiting: if it lasts more than a day it could be a sign of many problems.
e.)   Increased thirst without a change in activity level, and increased urination: this could be a sign of diabetes.
f.)    Tiring more quickly: is normal as a dog ages, but it may also be a sign of heart or lung problems. Observe if your dog becomes excessively out of breath after minimal exercise. If your vet determines that all is normal, continue an exercise routine but modify it as not to over exert your dog.
g.)   Coughing and excessive panting: may indicate heart disease. See your vet if this continues even after you have modified your dog’s exercise program.
h.)   Difficulty in getting up from a lying position or moving: may indicate arthritis.

3.)   Changes in Behavior:
a.)   Separation Anxiety- when left alone your dog may become destructive, barks, whines, or looses control of elimination. This can be controlled with training. You can give your dogs treats as you leave or toys/kongs so that they associate you leaving as a good thing. You ca also try crate training.
b.)   Sensitivity to Noise: loud noises that never bothered your dog before may now scare your dog.
c.)   Vocalizing: may be due to hearing loss or separation anxiety.
d.)   Uncharacteristic aggression: may be due to painful joints, a drug reaction, intolerance for new people or circumstances (older dogs like things to be the same), or hearing/vision loss. (TALK ABOUT GUS AND TUCKER SNAPPING).
e.)   Confusion, lack of attentiveness, disorientation.
f.)    Roaming in circles, barking at nothing, being withdrawn.
g.)   Elimination accidents: may be treated with medication, diapers, feeding two small meals a day instead of one big one. Shaving hair helps clean up.
If your dog starts to exhibit any of these behavioral issues, consult your vet.

CARING FOR YOUR AGING/DISABLED DOG. 
So you have noticed that something is not quite right and you have taken your dog to the vet and he has given you his diagnosis. Aside from following your veterinarian’s advice and giving your dog any prescribed medications, here are some common geriatric problems and things you can do to help your dog.

1.) Caring for common geriatric problems:
a.)   Arthritis or joint stiffness: medications include Rimadyl (possible side effect= liver damage) and Glucosamine w/ Chondritin (common in supplements, treats, food, etc), especially supplements that include Green Lipped Mussel which has been proven to stop the progression of arthritis. Orthopedic and heated beds as well as hot water bottles can also help alleviate any pain your dog may be feeling.
b.)   Blindness: avoid changing the location of furniture so your dog does not bump into things as often. Try spraying corners and furniture with cologne or perfume so that your dog can build a scent map of their surroundings in their mind (we did this with Tucker and it worked out great!). You can also put baby bumpers or foam padding over sharp edges to reduce your dog’s chance of injury should they bump into something. There is a chance that as your dog looses its sight it may become easily startled, so before touching your dog, make your presence known by talking to it, clapping your hands, stomping on the ground or gently blowing its ear. If you have a second dog, I have begun seeing a trend online where some owners have leashed both dogs together so that the seeing dog can help the dog with vision loss get around better (Read the story here!)
c.)   Deafness: Same as above. Instead of using vocal commands, train your dog using hand signals. When you want to bring your dog inside at night, try flicking the lights a few times as a cue to go to the doog.  
d.)   Obesity: Do not change food, just feed less of it.
e.)   Weight loss: Do not change your dog's food, just feed more of it until they are at a healthy weight. Sometimes changing to a puppy food might help dogs with significant weight loss, but always consult your vet first before making any dietary changes.
f.)    Diabetes: Insulin is an essential hormone that not only opens the pathways for glucose to get from the blood to the cells, it helps prevent the liver from producing an excess amount of glucose and aids the body in storing the sugar for future energy use. Onset of diabetes typically occurs between age 7- 9 and is fairly common among dogs. Dogs at a higher risk are unsprayed females, Keeshonds, Pulis, Mini Pinchers, Cairn terriers, poodles,  dachshunds, schnauzers, & beagles. Insulin injections are the most common treatment for diabetes. Food Tip: Look for foods that contain whole grains which helps keep glucose from spiking too high after a meal, increased fiber (7-18%) if your dog could stand to loose a few pounds, increased protein (15-35%), and decreased fat. Vitamin E antioxidants (>400IU/kg) can also be added to prevent free radical damage resulting from high glucose levels in the blood.
g.)   Difficulty getting around: Leashes, towels or special rear-end harnesses can be placed under the abdomen to aid in lifting your pet. Car ramps, pet stairs, foot traction pads, strollers/wagons and wheel chairs can also be used to help your pet get around easier. I also highly recommend searching for a pet rehabilitation and physical therapy center near you to begin alternative treatments such as hydrotherapy, stretching exercises, ultrasound and acupuncture to help your dog maintain or re-build muscle mass and maintain mobility.
Mobility: Keep the fur on your dog's pads trimmed close. This will give your dog more traction on slick floors. Put down skid-free carpeting in places where your dog normally lies down to make getting up and getting started easier.
You may wish to put coverings on your dog's paws -- such as those "slipper" socks that have non-skid material on the bottoms. "Paw Tectors," sold by K-V Vet Supply (1-800-423-8211) are described as being non-skid. They come in five sizes from XS to XL.

2.) Nutrition
            a.) Glucosamine w/ Chondritin and MSM- to support healthy joints.
b.) low-fat, low ash (the vitamins and minerals in pet food).
c.) Low protein- to keep kidneys healthy.
d.) Supplements: Echinacea and vitamin C to support immune system.
e.) Milk thistle- to support liver. Dennisile (nutritional supplement).
f.)    Vitamin B-12 -- for energy and metabolism
g.)   Vitamin E -- an antioxidant
h.)   Brewer's yeast -- a good source of the B-complex vitamins
i.)    Linoleic acid -- found i corn and sunflower oils
j.)    Bromelain -- aids digestion and is an anti-inflammatory
k.)   Glycerin -- for eye health
l.) WATER- should be filtered to ease kidneys and a raised bowl can make drinking easier. In large deep chested dogs raising is not a good idea because it can cause bloat.
Many dogs suffer from allergies or arthritis, diseases that are favorite targets of alternative remedies and methods. Anti-oxidant Vitamins C and E, preparations such as chondroitin sulfate and glucosamines, and Omega fatty acid supplements such as Missing Link are becoming more popular as non-drug remedies for degenerative joint diseases. The vitamins and Omega fatty acid supplements are also considered helpful in allergy cases that affect canine skin and coat.
Chondroitin sulfate and glucosamines are natural substances found in the body’s connective tissue; extracted from shark or bovine cartilage or from sea molluscs, they are used to stop cartilage deterioration, boost cartilage regeneration, and augment joint fluid production.

Choosing a dog food: The best strategy for choosing a commercial dog food is to find out what friends buy for their pets, see if the pets look good, and then try the food for your own dog. As long as the adult dog has plenty of energy and appears healthy, the food is adequate. If the dog is nervous, has a dull coat or skin problems, or lacks normal energy, and no other physical cause can be found, consider changing foods. In general, foods with a balance of Omega 3 and Omega 6 fatty acids help improve joint and skin health; foods with moderate protein content are best for non-working dogs; and foods with meat as the source of protein are best. Foods based on corn or containing soybeans may not be suitable for some dogs. You can also perform the water test. Drop a piece of your current kibble into some water. If the kibble floats then its primary ingredient is corn, rice, or things other than meat. These dog foods are not very good because they fill the dog up instead of providing the dog with usable nutrients such as protein. If the dog food sinks then its primary ingredient is protein, which is heavier and meets more of the dogs nutritional needs.
3.) Alternative /Holistic medicine.
Recognized by AVMA as an affective medical treatment. Used to restore the mind, body and spirit.
a.) Acupuncture: Acupuncture involves the use of fine needles to stimulate the body to good health. The dog’s energy stream can be restored by the insertion of thin needles at certain points along the meridian or energy path. “Veterinary acupuncture helps strengthen the animal’s immune system, relieve pain, and improve the function of organ systems.” “Acupuncture can help such fundamental problems as paralysis, arthritis, feline asthma, gastrointestinal problems, certain reproductive problems, and pain.” “Treatments stimulate nerves, increase blood circulation, relieve muscle spasms, and cause the release of such hormones as endorphins and cortisol.” (from http://www.canismajor.com/dog/accupunc.html)
b.) Chiropractic: The nervous system is responsible for initiating and coordinating movement and for integrating all the physiologic activities of the body such as adapting to temperature changes, digesting a meal, responding to a stressful situation, running, and obeying a command. A number of commonly occurring conditions, including arthritis, lameness, loss of flexibility, chronic pain, gastrointestinal problems and hip dysplasia, respond well to chiropractic care. Any time there is a loss of flexibility in any part of the skeleton, the remaining body components are subjected to compensatory stress as the animal shifts its balance to compensate. This is evident in the over-muscled fronts and stiff necks usually developed by dogs with longstanding clinical hip dysplasia, arthritis, and rear-end weaknesses. Chiropractic care for these animals improves their flexibility and reduces pain levels and the need for pain medication. Animals who have suffered any kind of trauma experience decreases in flexibility and mobility which may also be alleviated by a chiropractic adjustment.
c.) Hydrotherapy: Hydrotherapy acts by encouraging a full range of joint motion in reduced weight conditions, thus improving muscle tone and promoting tendon repair without imposing undue stress on damaged tissues and improving cardiovascular stamina. It is very good exercise for dogs that are loosing muscle or have a hard time getting around. The warm water loosens stiff muscles and the buoyancy of the water takes the pressure off of joints.

d.) Acupressure/ Canine massage: Good for animals that have been injured or are experiencing stiffness. It increases blood flow, shortens healing time, increases range of motion, helps achey or stiff muscles and joints, relieves pain and discomfort, releases endorphins, prevents formation of scar tissue, reduces swelling. Basically it helps older animals with chronic or degenerative diseases live a more peaceful life. You can give your pet rubdowns at home but it is recommended also to have a professional massage therapist treat your pet from time to time. Their hands are experienced and can detect changes in your dogs’ body that you cannot, then treat it. (DEMONSTRATE)

e.) Reiki:  In addition to acupressure, there are also holistic veterinarians that can treat your dog using Reiki. Reiki uses targeted  positive healing energy to balance and replenish vital energy in the body, unblock stagnate energy to promote natural self-healing, relaxes tension and stress, strengthens the immune system, relieves pain, prevents dis-harmony and promotes healing.

4.)   Maintaining your dogs’ health:
a.) Dental Care: Rotting teeth and gum disease can cause gum and mouth infections, and these infections can migrate to the vital organs and cause serious damage. Your dog’s teeth should be brushed daily and be professionally cleaned by your vet at least once a year. You can also give your dog chew toys specifically for cleaning teeth or greenies. (SHOW DENTAL PRODUCTS). A gradually diminishing interest in chewing is normal as a dog ages; but if your dog stops chewing suddenly or looks like he is eating in a "gingerly" fashion, it may be a sign that his teeth and gums are hurting and need professional attention.

b.) Grooming: The coat and skin are the dog's first line of defense against environmental attack from fleas, wetness, and cold. When the coat and skin are in poor condition, your dog becomes susceptible to disease or illness. Another reason for a daily grooming session has to do with an aging dog's need for physical contact and attention. A grooming session can be an energizer as well as provide an interesting diversion for the dog. It is also an opportunity for you and your dog to experience the kind of closeness and physical contact that is reassuring and satisfying and that contributes to the dog's overall sense of well-being -- which, in turn, stimulates good health.
Always bathe your older dog with warm water in a warm room. Cold will dry the dog's skin and might cause chilling. Always use a very mild shampoo with an older dog, since older skin has a tendency toward allergy and dryness. Don't use a blow-dryer, which is too hard on the coat and skin.
Use grooming sessions as a means of checking for tumors, growths, or changes in skin condition. Run your hands over all parts of your dog's body -- from stem to stern, along the abdomen, legs, ears, and tail. Early detection of a malignancy can extend your dog's life by years. The skin, as the largest organ of the body, also can indicate internal health problems that may not be otherwise visible. Watch for dryness or roughness of the skin texture, and for any unusual symptoms.

Most dog's nails need to be trimmed once a month, but an older dog's nails should be trimmed every three weeks. You can also do it weekly, if your preferred method is to trim just a tiny sliver from the nails each time you do it. But an older dog tends to do less walking and running, so it's critical to keep to a regular nail trimming schedule. Nails that are too long can affect the dog's gait and cause imbalance and muscle strain.

Be diligent about clean, dry ears with your senior dog, and you'll minimize the risk of an ear infection. If you notice a bad odor or discharge from the ears, or if your dog starts shaking her head noticeably more frequently, see your vet immediately. A major infection could be brewing. Your older dog's immune system isn't working quite as efficiently as it did when she was younger, making it harder for her to rebound from an infection. (Excessive head-shaking may also injure the brain.)

c.)   Exercise: Exercise is as essential to dogs as it is to humans. It is profoundly tied to a dog's physical, mental, and emotional health. A sedentary dog is a bored dog, often an overweight dog, and, in general, a less-than-optimally-healthy dog. You really need to be very observant in assessing your particular dog's abilities, natural inclinations, and current state of health. Keep alert to your dog's being excessively out of breath, or to a drooping head and tail. If your dog coughs or does not get her breath back after five minutes of rest following exercise, have the vet check her heart.
It's best to exercise your dog before he eats and to wait about half an hour after the exercise session before giving a meal. Keep your dog out of the sun, and, on a hot day, it's probably best not to exercise outdoors at all. Very cold, wet days are also times when indoor exercise is more appropriate.
If your dog has been diagnosed with hip dysplasia, check with your vet for recommendations on an exercise program. Usually walking and swimming are the best activities. For walking, use a leash so that you can control the duration and strenuousness of the exercise.
Two shorter walks will be less stressful on aging joints than one long walk. The walks can be quite brisk, provided the vet has given approval. A brisk walk should have four components:
                                    - a warm-up of about 5 minutes, gradually increasing the pace
                                    - brisk walking of about 20 minutes
                                    - a cool-down of about 5 minutes, then gradually decrease the pace.
                                    - a drink of water.
If you play fetch with your older dog, throw the ball or toy a little closer than you did when your dog was younger, and repeat the toss fewer times. After a point, it is probably advisable to stop playing fetch and to concentrate on walking or swimming.
SWIMMING: Make sure your dog knows how to get out. Falling in is a big concern when your dog gets older because they tire out quickly. Putting a fence around your pool or supervising your dog when they are around your pool can prevent fall-ins. Installing a ramp is also a good idea. If your dog is nervous in the pool, try using a life vest which can give the dog more comfort, confidence, and make swimming more enjoyable. When swimming, remember that an older dog will tend to become chilled much more quickly than a young dog. Take big towels along, and use them to dry off your dog as soon as he gets out of the water -- and preferably before he begins shivering.


IV. KEEPING YOUR DOG COMFORTABLE
1.) Weather: Cold and dampness are hard on an old dog. As your dog ages, her coat will get thinner and her circulation will be less efficient, making her feel the cold more. Protect her with a sweater and/or rain gear when necessary. Don't keep her out too long in really cold weather. Older dogs are also more susceptible to becoming overheated in hot weather. Shade your older dog from the sun and keep him in an air-conditioned room in very hot weather. Take shorter rather than longer walks in the hot weather. Be sure he has plenty of cool water to drink. Never leave your dog -- of any age -- parked in a sunny place in a closed car (even with the windows slightly open). A car parked in the sun can become an oven in just a few minutes.

2.) Home Environment: To the extent possible, keep your dog's home environment and routines the same. For example, her water and food bowls should be in the same location and she should be fed and walked at the usual times and in the usual places. Of course, individual dogs will vary in their ability to deal with change in their surroundings. Dogs with decreased vision will be more stressed if the furniture is changed around than dogs whose vision is still good. Be alert to signs of stress in your dog that you may have inadvertently caused by a change in home environment. Try to help her adjust by giving attention and guidance and lots of positive reinforcement when she seems to become more relaxed about the change.
Slippery floors will become a problem as your dog ages. You'll notice that your dog will begin to have trouble getting up from the bare floor, or walking across the bare floor. Cover the problem areas of the floor with a rubber-backed/non-skid runner or area rug.
Your older dog's sleeping areas are particularly important environmental factors. Many older dogs -- particularly those with arthritis in hips and back -- seem to prefer sleeping on an "egg crate" type mattress. Not only does it seem to provide a more even surface and therefore give better skeletal alignment, it also tends to reduce pressure on the dog's bony areas. Egg-crate mattresses are sometimes called "orthopedic" mattresses, and are sold, with zippered covers, through catalogs and in pet stores. But you may also simply buy one from a local foam rubber store or a place like K-Mart, cut it to size, and top it with blankets, towels, or a synthetic "sheepskin." You can place several of these mattresses around the house, in the areas where your dog(s) nap during the day, as well as in the night-time sleeping spot. Concerning beds that have a built-in heating element, the comment we've heard most often is that the heating element is small and doesn't produce very much heat, and that dogs don't seem to find the mattresses all that appealing. It is important to remember that a dog’s normal body temperature is 102 degrees so even a small increase in heat is good. Meals are also a very important part of your older dog's life. Be sure your older dog has a consistently organized, quiet environment in which to consume meals.
Cleanliness and parasite control are critical in an older dog's environment. Keep your senior dog's water and food bowls scrupulously clean, to prevent them from getting sick.

3.) Companionship: An older dog tends to sleep more, but that doesn't mean he should be left alone more. His nose still tells him when he has human company, even as he sleeps. He will still hear your voice (or sense your presence through vibrations), even though he looks like he's dreaming. Give your older dog the benefit of as much human companionship as he's had throughout his life -- even increase it, if possible. Keep him near you and take him with you when you go places. It will increase his sense of security and his involvement with life, and it will make him last longer.

Sunday, July 1, 2012

War Dogs

As the 4th of July quickly approaches, I'm moved to tears reading story after story about dogs (and some kitties!) being rescued from Afghanistan by caring soldiers. There is nothing sexier than a man with a soft heart who shows compassion for those who cannot take care of themselves, especially when in uniform! *wink wink* So to all our men and women serving our country in the armed forces or in our own backyard fighting fires, crime and animal abuse, I'd like to give you a shout out from the dog house rooftops and say thank you for all you do. And hopefully we can help you too! Please take a moment of your time to show your support by donating to these beyond worthy organizations. Thanks and let's give these war dogs a reason to celebrate Independence Day by coming home with their soldiers!
Click Here to Help Bring Rescued War Dogs Home


Just like our veterans, war dogs can also suffer from post-traumatic stress disorder (PTSD). However, most war dogs go undiagnosed and do not end up getting the care and rehabilitation they need. Thanks to legislation passed in November 2000, civilians can now adopt retired military dogs! Help these dogs by donating and consider adopting one, because you know there is always room for one more dog! They have so much love to give after giving their all to their country and so many soldiers wouldn't even be here without them.
Click Here to Adopt a Retired War Dog!


Happy Independence Day to our favorite two and four-legged soldiers!

Thursday, June 28, 2012

Disaster Preparedness for Pets



There is nothing scarier than facing a natural disaster and having only minutes to evacuate your home. Unfortunately, most people believe that nothing like that will ever happen to them because they don't live in "one of those areas" that may be at risk. But the truth is that disasters can happen any time, anywhere, and without warning. Fires, hurricanes, earthquakes, floods, attacks, all these can happen and can mean big trouble for you if you have pets. One of the topics I cover in all of my dog training courses is Disaster Preparedness for Pets. After Hurricane Katrina and the California wild fires, unprepared pet owners either lost or became separated from their pets while trying to save their own lives. It is estimated that after Katrina alone an estimated 50,000 animals were left behind. Many were rescued and reunited with their owners, but many either perished or ended up in shelters or foster homes. During a disaster, the last thing you want to worry about is what you are going to do with your pet, and then have to scramble to get all of their necessities together. Dog food and leashes don't always come at the top of your priority list when you are running around your home to secure clothes, medications and valuables. So here I have compiled a list and a guide that every pet owner should read and have ready before a disaster ever happens! You know what they say... better be safe than sorry!


Q: Why should we make arrangements ahead of time?
A: Several reasons include:
  • The municipal response may be a few minutes to a few days reaching you during and after a disaster.
  • Damage to streets and bridges may prevent rescue teams and equipment from reaching you in time.
  •  Federal response will usually take 48- 72 hours to activate after requested.

WHAT TO DO NOW:
1.) Authorize emergency treatment. The next time you visit your veterinarian's office ask to sign your pet's chart to pre-authorize emergency treatment.  Time may become crucial if your pet is critically injured so having permission to treat your pet in an emergency is vital if you cannot be reached for authorization. When you pre-authorize treatment, you give the vet the authority to perform life-saving procedures, including surgery, without having to wait for your consent. Ask to get a photocopy of this authorization to keep with your pet records and make sure your vet has all of your current emergency contact information as well as a trusted friend or family member who can give authorization if you cannot be reached.
2.) Microchip your pet. -       Having multiple forms of identification will help rescue teams or good samaritans reunite you with your pet if it is found. Microchipping has come a long way since it first debuted, and the cost has dropped dramatically. I have seen microchipping clinics charge as low as $10! Before you get your pet chipped, you want to find out if there is an annual subscription fee to use their service or if it is a one-time charge. When you get your pet microchipped, it doesn't matter if your dog's ID tags fall off because they have a permanent chip that is the size of a grain of rice embedded just underneath their skin that carries an ID code. If you find a pet without tags, you can take it to a veterinary clinic or an animal shelter to be scanned. If the pet is chipped, the microchip company will be alerted and the owners will be notified that their pet has been found. Microchipping your pet is a fail-safe way to ensure that if your pet is ever lost, it has a way to be returned to you.
3.) Keep your pet current on its vaccinations. In a worst case scenario, let's say your pet does get left behind and ends up having to fend for itself on the streets. In a disaster situation of the worst kind, water and electricity are cut off and stagnant pools of water can form which are full of bacteria. Risk of disease or running into wild animals or unvaccinated strays is much, much higher than when your pet is in the safety of their own home. Canine Bordatella aka "kennel cough", can also run rampant in a disaster setting if your pet ends up being evacuated to a shelter. Diseases such as parvo can also be fatal in young animals and animals who are immuno-compromised. It is critical to keep your dog up-to-date on its vaccinations and to be vigilant in keeping your pet de-wormed if it spends a lot of time out doors or around other dogs. Also be sure your pet is spayed/neutered!
4.) Train and socialize your dog! Dogs that are untrained are hard to manage in a situation where there is a lot of chaos. Some dogs may become fearful and break loose of their leashes and run away. Dogs that are trained in basic obedience and who are socialized with other dogs and people are much better able to deal with change and remain calm in high-stress situations. Also, a trained dog is much more likely to approach a friendly stranger who may be trying to rescue him than a dog who is aggressive or fearful of others. 
5.) Keep copies of your pet's records. When assembling your first aid kit (I will cover that later), always make sure to keep photocopies of your pet's records sealed in a plastic bag. Also be sure to keep current photos of your pet with your records should you have to make lost and found flyers or go searching for them at a shelter. Include all vaccination/health records, medication lists, and rabies certificates.
6.) Have an evacuation plan. If you are given an evacuation warning, do you know what to do or where to go? Probably not. As a family you should sit down and decide on a location together. This location should be somewhere close to home that everyone is familiar with and knows how to get to. In a disaster situation cell phone towers may not be operational so you should discuss when to know to go there. Have a back-up location if your original location is too close to the danger area. 
7.) Decide where your pets will go and who will care for them if you are unable to do so. Decide now on an emergency contact person who you can notify if you need to leave your animals behind. Make sure this person is someone you trust who also has copies of your pet's records, a key to you home and your family's evacuation plan. Your vet should also have this person's emergency contact information. Make a copy of your family's plan and keep it posted on your refrigerator at all times. Update it yearly as needed. If you do not have a designated friend to watch over your pets, have the contact information of local pet-friendly hotels and motels, boarding facilities, animal shelters or your veterinarian handy. Call ahead of time to find out what their emergency disaster policies are such as where/when to take your pets in, any fees, calling ahead, etc.
7.) Make an emergency kit. You will want to assemble an emergency kit that can be grabbed quickly should you only have minutes to evacuate your home. If your dog is small, you can put your emergency kit into a crate that will accommodate your dog's size. Remember, in a disaster, your dog could be spending days or weeks in his crate, so get one big enough for him to get up and move around in. If you have a large size dog and cannot accommodate a crate that big, look for a collapsable one or one made out of canvas that can be stowed flat and just use a duffel bag for your kit. Put your emergency crate or duffel bag in your garage and check it yearly to change out any expired food or medications (I usually do it when its day-light savings time so I remember or I put an alert in my calendar). Items that should be included in your kit will be covered below.
*Bonus Tip: -       Be familiar with all chemicals in your household and how to treat them in case of ingestion or contamination.*



Items to Include in your FIRST AID Kit:
  • Adhesive Tape
  • Antibacterial Ointments
  • Blankets
  • Blunt tipped scissors
  • Cotton balls/pads
  • Cotton swabs (long handled Q-tips)
  • Diarrhea medicine (for pets)
  • Digital Rectal Thermometer
  • Eyebrow tweezers
  • First aid book for pets (Click here- this one is GREAT!)
  • Gauze & Gauze Pads
  • Hydrogen Peroxide
  • Instant cold/hot packs
  • Medicine Droppers
  • Muzzles
  • Non-stick paper tape and waterproof tape
  • Plastic storage bags and containers
  • Razor blade (for snake bites)
  • Rubber tubing or cloth for tourniquet
  • Self-adhesive bandage
  • Sterile Wound Wash
  • Visine Lubricating Eye Drops (add extra for dogs with eyes that bulge out, ex. Boston Terrier, Pug, etc)
  • Vaseline
  • Window Decals (see photo on Right)


Items to Include in your EMERGENCY Kit:
-       Use a crate or sturdy bag to hold all of your equipment (put ID tag on these). Label these with your information, your pets’ information and your pets’ photo.
-       Collar and leash (yard stake is recommended also).
-       1-week supply of non-perishable food and water. Mark the expiration dates on your calendar so you know when to replace them.
-       Food and water bowls.
-       Towels and/or blankets.
-       Copies of all veterinary records in sealed waterproof container.
-       Minimum 1-week supply of pet’s medications (if any).
-       Pet First Aid kit (and know how to use it) and latex gloves (see item list below).
-       Photos and description of your pet in case you become separated.
-       Manual can opener.
-       Familiar toys.
-       Litter box and litter.
-       Sanitary items including: Paper towels, puppy pads, poop bags and pet-safe cage disinfectant.

**There are a lot of good emergency packs available online as well for purchase. Click Here **

Remember: Do NOT give ANY medications to pets unless you have a veterinarian’s approval. Tylenol (acetaminophen) and Ibuprofin are toxic to pets! There are many medications available specifically for pets that you can buy from your pet supply store.

Animal Poison Hotline & Poison Control for Pets
(800)548-2423 or 900/680-0000
                                                      (both numbers charge a fee.)

So You Are Faced With A Disaster- Now What?
1.) When you have advance warning that a disaster is going to strike:
  • Cut off your utilities, especially gas lines to prevent home hazards.
  • Get your pets and family members into the house.
  • Review your disaster plan.
  • Gather your emergency supply kits.
  • Check on your neighbors.
  • If directed to evacuate- DO go with your pets.

2.) If Disaster Strikes
  • Remain calm and patient, follow your disaster plan.
  • Check for injuries.
  • Listen to your battery-powered radio for news and instructions.
  • Check for damage in your home: use flashlights, shut off any damaged utilities, and clean up spilled fluids.
  • Remember to: Secure your pets, call your family contact, check on your neighbor, and follow official emergency instructions. 

3.) After the Disaster
  • For the good of your family and pets, stabilize a routine. This helps keep everyone calm and focused.
  • Conserve resources.
  • Communicate with family and friends when appropriate.
  • Evaluate the short-term situation.
  • Plan for the long-term. Ration supplies if needed.
  • Volunteer to help others.

If You Have to Evacuate
-       Evacuate early and take your pet to stay with your pre-arranged family member or friend if they cannot be with you.
-       Take your pet to your pre-arranged shelter, boarding facility, veterinary office, or pet friendly hotel if you need to. Find out their disaster protocol and make sure they have all of your emergency contact information.

Minimizing Stress
-       Keep pet in a calm and quiet place. Do not give your pet anything to eat or drink until they calm down.
-       Cover cage with a blanket or towel. Too much stimuli increases stress.
-       Calming sprays or anti-anxiety medications may help.

If Your Pet is Injured
-       Try to keep your pet calm and still until you assess the injury.
-       Refer to your first aid kit in your emergency kit.
-       If your pet is bleeding, apply firm pressure to the wound with a towel or your hand.
-       If your pet has a broken limb, you can make a splint out of tape or sticky gauze and any flat, stiff material such as a board or rolled up magazine.
-       Pets may become fearful and aggressive when injured so muzzle your pet with a face muzzle or a leash to prevent injury to yourself.
-       Seek veterinary attention IMMEDIATELY.
-       If your pet is choking, open their mouth, pull the tongue forward and remove the item if possible. Lift pet by hind legs- item should dislodge. Or wrap arms around abdomen and compress.

If Your Pet Becomes Lost
-       Know your pet’s favorite hiding spots or spots they would most likely seek shelter. But only search for your pet when it is safe to do so. Rescue officials will tell you that the situation is clear.
-       Use the photos in your emergency kit to post signs.
-       Visit (don’t call) shelters, boarding facilities and veterinary clinics (including emergency clinics) to look for your pet. They may have too many pets in their care to be able to identify your pet from a photo or description on the phone, or they may just not have the time. Follow their lost pet protocol.

Animals in Shock
-       Keep pet warm by wrapping a blanket around its body. Use your own body for additional warmth. This is critical!
-       Elevate the animals’ rear end with a blanket if its back is not injured.
-       Seek veterinary attention immediately.
-       If pet is not breathing, administer CPR.

The ABC’s of CPR- No Pulse? No Breath?
Airway: Check to see that the animal’s airway is clear. If not, tilt head slightly back, pull tongue forward and remove foreign object.
Breathing: Check to see if the animal is breathing. If not, hold muzzle closed on large dogs and seal your mouth around the animal’s nose. On small animals your mouth will cover both the animal’s nose and mouth. Give 4-5 breaths then check to see if the animal is breathing on its own. If the breathing is shallow or there is no breathing, continue rescue breathing until you reach a vet or for a maximum of 20 minutes. (Small dogs = 20-30 breaths/min. Big dogs = 20 breaths/min.
Circulation: Check to see if there is a pulse or heartbeat. If not, perform chest compressions. Small animal =  lay animal on its right side and sit facing the animal’s chest. Place your palm over the ribs where they meet the elbow and your other hand underneath. Compress chest ½ to 1 inch in a ratio of 5 compressions for each breath. Check for a pulse. MED – LARGE dogs = Kneel over dog with dogs back towards you. Cup your hands over each other and compress where the elbow meets the chest. Compress 1-3 inches in a ratio of 5 compressions per breath. GIANT dogs = same as large dogs but do 10 compressions per breath.


After Hurricane Katrina it became apparent that household pets play an important role in disaster relief planning. I’m happy to report that thanks to the Humane Society of the United States, a law called the Pets Evacuation and Transportation Safety (PETS) Act was passed in 2010 that requires pets and service animals to be included in state and federal evacuation plans. But we cannot rely on the government alone to ensure our pets’ safety in a disaster- that part is up to us and the more we do in advance, the better off you and your pets are if a disaster should strike. I hope that this post was helpful to you and that you are inspired to get started on your own disaster plan. Feel free to message me if you have any further questions or need help choosing products to include in your emergency kit. Thank you! :)

*Please share this post with your friends- the more people know about disaster preparedness the easier it will be on the victims and their pets if one should ever happen.

Links for further reading 

For Pet Owners
For Veterinary Practices (give one to your vet!)

Extras
Sources
FEMA:
http://www.nj.gov/njoem/pdf/petdis.pdf

HSUS:
http://hsus.org/hsus_field/hsus_disaster_center/resources/

ASPCA:
http://www.aspca.org/site/PageServer?pagename=pets_emergency

Mammato, Bobbie, DVM, MPH. Pet First Aid. The American National Red Cross and Humane Society of the United States, 1997.


Photo Credits
http://www.forpawshospice.org/resources/Graphics/PetRescue_jpg.jpg